I guess Wednesday’s are dedicated to surfing now. Though I’m proud I’ve kept my surfing streak up, I definitely want to use one of my free Wednesdays to do something else one of these days! Although I’ve still been loving surfing and the process of learning to surf better, it definitely is a bit defeating when you get all the way out there just for there to be sub par waves. That’s what happened this sunny Wednesday afternoon. 

At 1:30pm we (me and Katie) set out on the road after stopping at a gas station to fill up and grab some ice teas and cheezies as a post surf snack (good decision). We decided we needed to have a surfing tradition, and we may have decided an iced tea post surf was going to be it, but we’re still working on that idea.

Once we got to JR, we noticed it was a little choppy, though the forecast said it would get glassy later in the afternoon. We suited up and got into the water, which was deeper than I thought it would be. There were 4-5 other people in the water with us, so it was busier than we had seen in the last few weeks. The waves were a good size for us, but since it was pretty deep it was harder to catch the waves. We tried to paddle as much as possible so we could get used to it, as the better surfers never stand. This completely wore my arms out, which also gave me a better idea of how hard it would really be to not be able to touch the ground for 2+ hours. I could tell I was getting more used to paddling, even if I wasn’t great at it. We tried to venture a bit further out, but I found myself anxious with the thoughts of not being able to touch the bottom if I had to.

The waves were very difficult to catch as they weren’t the most powerful, but I managed to catch about four or five waves, not to mention the blaring sun that made it extremely difficult to see. Although it wasn’t the best conditions I felt I improved confidence wise, and felt more comfortable in the water. The sky treated us with a beautiful sunset, and although a bit frustrated and very tired, we were glad we went out.

Overall Confidence : 7/10

Conditions: 5 foot swell

Busy: Somewhat

Best Wave of Session: Crasher wave

Length of Best Wave: 12 seconds

Session Duration: 2 hours